If you have ever received a quote from a garment manufacturer and seen terms like FOB, CMT, CIF, or EXW β and quietly wondered what they actually mean β this post is for you. These are not just industry jargon. They define who pays for what, who carries the risk, and ultimately how much each garment actually costs your business by the time it reaches your warehouse.
Getting this wrong is one of the most common and expensive mistakes fashion brands make when sourcing overseas for the first time. Pricing a product off a FOB quote without accounting for freight, duties, and import costs has killed the margins of many brands that thought they were getting a good deal.
This guide breaks everything down clearly β what each term means, how to read a factory quote, how to calculate your true landed cost, and what to expect when working with a manufacturer in Bangladesh.
The Four Pricing Terms You Will See in Garment Manufacturing
Incoterms β International Commercial Terms β are standardised definitions published by the International Chamber of Commerce. They define the point at which responsibility and cost transfer from seller to buyer. In garment manufacturing, four terms dominate:
| Term | Full Name | Who Pays Freight? | Best For |
| CMT | Cut, Make, Trim | Buyer supplies fabric β factory charges labour only | Brands with own fabric |
| FOB | Free on Board | Buyer pays from origin port onward | Most overseas orders |
| CIF | Cost Insurance Freight | Seller pays to destination port | Buyers wanting simplicity |
| EXW | Ex Works | Buyer pays everything from factory gate | Experienced importers |
FOB is by far the most commonly used term in the Bangladesh garment industry and in international apparel trade generally. When a manufacturer sends you a quote, it is almost always a FOB price unless they specifically state otherwise.
CMT β Cut, Make, Trim
CMT is the most basic manufacturing service. Under CMT, you as the brand supply all the raw materials β fabric, buttons, zippers, labels, thread, and any other trims β directly to the factory. The factory charges you only for the labour involved in cutting, assembling, and finishing the garment.
What a CMT price includes:
- Cutting: labour cost for cutting fabric panels from your supplied fabric
- Making: sewing, assembling, and stitching all components together
- Trimming: attaching buttons, zippers, labels, and other finishing details
When CMT Makes Sense
CMT is appropriate in a narrow set of circumstances:
- You have a proprietary fabric that is not available locally in Bangladesh
- You have an existing fabric supplier relationship you want to maintain
- You are placing a very small order and want to minimise factory risk
When CMT Is the Wrong Choice
For most international fashion brands β especially those sourcing from Bangladesh for the first time β CMT creates more problems than it solves:
- You carry the full fabric risk. If your fabric shipment is delayed, damaged, or incorrect, production stops and you pay for it
- You need Bangladesh import expertise. Shipping fabric internationally involves customs, duties, and documentation that experienced buyers manage but newcomers often underestimate
- The savings are often illusory. Fabric that costs 60β70% of a garment’s total cost in a FOB quote is sourced by your factory at better prices than you can access as an individual brand due to their purchasing volume
The general rule: unless you have a specific and compelling reason to use CMT, FOB is the better choice for overseas production.
FOB β Free on Board (The Standard You Need to Understand)
FOB is the standard pricing term in Bangladesh garment manufacturing and the one you will encounter on virtually every factory quote. Understanding FOB exactly is not optional β it is fundamental to running a profitable sourcing operation.
What FOB Price Includes
A FOB price from a Bangladesh manufacturer covers everything the factory does and pays for up to the point the goods are loaded onto the shipping vessel at Chittagong port:
- Raw materials: fabric, yarn, buttons, zippers, labels, hangtags, polybags, cartons β everything physical in the garment and its packaging
- Production labour: cutting, sewing, finishing, quality control, ironing, folding
- Factory overhead: electricity, machinery depreciation, management, admin
- Local transportation: moving finished goods from factory in Mirpur to Chittagong port
- Export documentation: packing list, commercial invoice, certificate of origin, export customs clearance
- Port handling charges: loading goods onto the nominated vessel at origin port
What FOB Price Does NOT Include
This is where many brands make expensive mistakes. Once goods are on board the ship at Chittagong, everything from that point is your responsibility and your cost:
- Ocean or air freight: shipping from Chittagong to your destination port
- Marine insurance: protecting the goods during transit
- Import duties and tariffs: taxes levied by your country on imported garments β 0% from EU currently under EBA, 10β20% for US buyers depending on current tariff regime
- Customs brokerage fees: the agent who clears your goods through customs at destination
- Destination port handling: unloading, container handling at your port
- Inland delivery: trucking from destination port to your warehouse
FOB Pricing: A Real Example
Here is what a realistic FOB quote and landed cost calculation looks like for a hoodie order:
| Cost Component | Per Unit (USD) | Notes |
| FOB Price (factory quote) | $11.50 | Everything to Chittagong port |
| Ocean freight (sea) | $1.20 | Chittagong β Rotterdam, per unit at 500pcs |
| Marine insurance | $0.15 | Standard 0.5% of cargo value |
| EU import duty | $0.00 | 0% under EBA duty-free access in 2026 |
| Customs brokerage | $0.25 | Fixed fee spread across order |
| Inland delivery to warehouse | $0.40 | Port to your UK / EU warehouse |
| Total Landed Cost per unit | $13.50 | What you actually paid per garment |
| Retail price (3Γ multiplier) | $40.50 | Standard wholesale-to-retail markup |
Source: Illustrative example based on standard Bangladesh export rates, Q1 2026
CIF β Cost, Insurance, Freight
CIF means the seller β your manufacturer β quotes a price that includes the goods, insurance, and freight to your destination port. Under CIF, the factory arranges and pays for shipping to your country, not just to the origin port.
What CIF includes β everything FOB includes, plus:
- International freight: the factory books and pays for shipping to your destination port
- Marine insurance: the factory insures the goods during transit
FOB vs CIF β Which Should You Choose?
Most experienced buyers prefer FOB. Here is why:
- You control the freight cost. By booking your own freight forwarder, you can shop for better rates and choose your preferred shipping timeline
- You choose your insurance provider. Factory-arranged insurance may not give you the coverage level you want
- Better visibility. When you book freight yourself, you have direct communication with the carrier and real-time tracking
CIF is sometimes appropriate for brands placing their very first order, or for smaller orders where the simplicity of having the factory handle logistics outweighs the cost savings of self-booking freight.
What Goes Into a FOB Price: The Cost Breakdown
Understanding what makes up a factory’s FOB quote helps you negotiate intelligently and spot when a quote is unreasonably high or suspiciously low. A standard garment FOB cost breaks down approximately as follows:
| Cost Component | % of FOB Price | What It Covers |
| Fabric | 60β70% | Main fabric β the single largest cost item |
| Trims & accessories | 5β10% | Buttons, zippers, labels, thread, elastic, hangtags |
| Cut, Make, Trim (labour) | 15β20% | Skilled sewing, cutting, finishing labour |
| Factory overhead | 5β8% | Electricity, machinery, management, QC |
| Factory profit margin | 5β10% | Manufacturer’s margin on the order |
| Packaging & export docs | 2β4% | Cartons, polybags, customs paperwork |
Key insight: fabric is the dominant cost. This is why order volume has such a large impact on FOB price β larger orders allow the factory to buy fabric in bigger rolls at lower unit cost, and that saving passes through directly to your FOB price per garment.
How to Read a Factory Quote From Bangladesh
When you request a quote from a manufacturer like Manamo Fashions, you will typically receive a document or email containing these key elements. Here is what each line means and what to look for:
- Product description and construction: The specific garment, fabric, weight, colour, and any special finishes or washes. Make sure this exactly matches your tech pack or specification sheet.
- Fabric specification: GSM weight, fibre content, fabric type. A 200gsm 100% organic cotton jersey and a 160gsm cotton-polyester blend are very different products at different prices β confirm this is exactly what you specified.
- FOB price per unit: The cost per garment at the stated order quantity. Always confirm which Incoterm this is. Never assume.
- MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity): The minimum number of pieces you must order per style or per colour. In Bangladesh, this is typically 300β500 pieces for most manufacturers.
- Lead time: How many days or weeks from order confirmation and deposit payment to goods ready at port. Standard Bangladesh lead time is 45β75 days for new styles.
- Payment terms: Typically 30β50% deposit on order confirmation, balance before shipment. Some factories offer Letter of Credit (L/C) terms for established buyers.
- Validity period: How long the quoted price is valid. Fabric prices fluctuate β a quote valid for 30 days may change if you take 60 days to confirm.
Calculating Your True Landed Cost β The Number That Actually Matters
Your FOB price is not your cost. Your landed cost β what you actually paid per garment including everything to get it to your warehouse β is the number you must use when setting wholesale and retail prices.
The formula:
Landed Cost = FOB Price + Freight + Insurance + Import Duty + Customs Brokerage + Inland Delivery
For EU-based brands sourcing from Bangladesh in 2026, import duty is currently 0% under the EBA scheme. This significantly reduces your landed cost compared to sourcing from countries that do not have preferential EU access.
For US-based brands, a flat 10% tariff currently applies under the temporary February 2026 Supreme Court ruling. Factor this into your landed cost calculation. Note that garments manufactured using US cotton may qualify for reduced tariff rates under the February 2026 bilateral trade agreement.
5 Pricing Mistakes Fashion Brands Make When Sourcing Overseas
1. Comparing FOB to EXW Quotes
If one manufacturer quotes you FOB $11.50 and another quotes EXW $10.00, they are not comparable. The EXW price excludes local transport and export documentation β typically $0.80β$1.50 per unit β making the EXW quote actually more expensive. Always request FOB quotes to compare manufacturers accurately.
2. Pricing Your Product Off FOB Without Adding Landed Costs
A hoodie at FOB $11.50 costs you approximately $13.50 landed in Europe. If you set your wholesale price based on $11.50, you will lose money on every unit. Always calculate from landed cost.
3. Ignoring the Impact of MOQ on Unit Price
A factory quote at 300 pieces MOQ might be FOB $13.00. The same factory quoting for 1,000 pieces of the same garment might offer $10.50 β a 19% reduction. If your volume allows it, consolidating styles to meet higher MOQs significantly reduces per-unit cost.
4. Not Understanding Payment Terms Before Signing
A 50% deposit on a $15,000 order means $7,500 is due before production starts. If you do not have this working capital ready, your order is delayed. Always confirm payment terms and ensure you have the capital before committing.
5. Forgetting About Sample Costs
Most factories charge for pre-production samples β typically $50β$200 per sample depending on complexity. These costs are real and should be budgeted. Some manufacturers deduct sample costs from your first bulk order once confirmed.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does FOB mean in garment manufacturing?
FOB stands for Free on Board. In garment manufacturing, a FOB price includes everything the factory does and pays for up to the point goods are loaded onto the shipping vessel at the origin port β including raw materials, production labour, quality control, packaging, local transport, and export documentation. The buyer takes responsibility and pays for all costs from the origin port onward, including international freight, insurance, import duties, and customs clearance at destination.
What is the difference between CMT and FOB in garment production?
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) means the brand supplies all raw materials β fabric, buttons, zippers, labels β and the factory charges only for the labour of cutting, assembling, and finishing the garment. FOB (Free on Board) means the factory sources all materials and manages the entire production process, quoting one all-inclusive price to the origin port. FOB is the standard for most international garment orders as it is simpler, reduces buyer risk, and allows factories to leverage better fabric pricing than individual brands typically can access.
What is the difference between FOB and CIF?
Under FOB, the buyer pays for international freight and insurance from the origin port to their destination. Under CIF (Cost, Insurance, Freight), the seller arranges and pays for shipping and insurance to the destination port. Most experienced importers prefer FOB because it gives them control over freight booking, shipping timelines, and insurance terms. CIF is simpler for first-time importers but typically costs more and provides less control.
How do I calculate landed cost for garments from Bangladesh?
Landed cost = FOB price + international freight + marine insurance + import duty + customs brokerage fee + inland delivery to warehouse. For EU brands sourcing from Bangladesh in 2026, import duty is currently 0% under the EBA duty-free scheme. For US brands, a flat 10% tariff currently applies. As a rough guide, add 15β20% to your Bangladesh FOB price to estimate total landed cost for EU buyers, or 25β30% for US buyers including current tariffs.
What is the typical FOB price range for garments from Bangladesh?
FOB prices vary significantly by product type and order volume. As a general guide for 2026: basic cotton t-shirts start from $2.50β$4.50 FOB; hoodies and sweatshirts $8β$14 FOB; denim jeans $10β$18 FOB; activewear leggings $6β$12 FOB; woven shirts $7β$13 FOB. Prices decrease with higher order volume, premium fabrics, and technical construction details increase the price.